- A Manual for Mexican Street Cooking -

Version 2.5

by Allen Strange
(Restored version)

Saludo!

• La Prima
• The Evolution of Taco Stand Cuisine
• The Basic Stash
• Meats
  Chicken
  The Fixin's
• Fiestas y Adios
• Index of Recipes

The subject at hand here is folk food and the art of taco stand cuisine. The recipes and techniques are in the tradition of Mexican home cooking and have been developed over the years, guided by what I have learned from many Mexican cooks, the ingredients available to me, and, most important, the insatiable need to consume as much Mexican food as possible. These are not the kinds of recipes you are apt to find in most cookbooks, and certainly probably will not produce the results one is used to at most Mexican restaurants north of the border. But these are the sort of recipes that will produce excellent results and delicious food in the traditions of the immortal temple of the taco -- the taqueria.

I have written this guide to satisfy three personal needs; 1) for my friends, with hope of encouragement to further explore the wonders of Mexican cooking and so they will invite me to dinner more often, 2) to codify some of my own cooking habits [as I am not a very organized meal planner], and, 3) as a personal rebellion against ground beef tacos, processed cheese quesadillas and overpriced Mexican dishes prepared by French chefs with a phobia against lard.

Being born in an American-Mexican border town and living one quarter of a century in Southern California, my move to the south San Francisco Bay area was certainly not motivated by a pilgrimage for great Mexican cooking. Even though, I was initially very disappointed in what I thought to be a surprising lack of satisfying Mexican food in an area of large Hispanic population. Over the years of course I realized this was only due to my own unfamiliarity with some of the many hidden jewels and palaces of piquant hidden far away from the shopping malls and restaurant guides in the South Bay. There will be more to say about several of the temples of the tortilla and other sources of the rosy red morning after a bit later. Out of self defense of possible shredded beef withdrawal, I began attempts at recreating the flavors and textures of Mexican cooking I remembered from the streets and sidewalks of Calexico and Tiajuana. At that time I was only mildly versed in the cooking methods and the ingredients required to activate the salsa of Pavlov's Pedro. Consequently, many of the methods and ingredients put forth here are occasionally not quite authentic and may be questioned and criticized by other advocates of commercial Mexican cuisine. The results, however, are quite authentic in appearance and flavor, and will hold their own against any other mesa de Mexico.

I have spent many hours sifting through every Mexican cookbook I could find-- a few supplying some very useful information on both ingredients and techniques. I have cited these resources at the appropriate spots and strongly recommend that you add them to your library. My own esthetic is perhaps best described as peasant food, and this approach has also generated some interesting techniques. I have adapted and developed these recipes to work with what can be found in most grocery stores. Some of the recipes will call for what appear to be very traditional ingredients, while others will require some tampering with commercial preparations. Trust me-- these things work if treated and doctored in the right way.

---

The Evolution of Taco Stand Cuisine
. . . (according to me)

Like all great cuisines on this planet, taqueria cooking did not just sprout out of the ground. There are many cookbooks documenting the evolution of Mexican food, beginning with the "crude" methods of the South American Indians, a middle-era about the Spaniards teaching them that turkey tastes better than dog, and ending with the development of various regional recipes and techniques. My own theory is a bit more abbreviated and probably just as accurate. In the beginning, God made machaca (shredded beef.) The Baja Indians made the tortillas, but in those days only God could make shredded beef. Then one day an Indian named Taco put some machaca in a warm tortilla. The next day his larger brother, Burrito, rolled the beef in a flour tortilla and his mother, Enchilada, put some red chili sauce on it. And on it went until all the Indians moved to America and opened taquerias, named, of course, after the first Indian to put shredded beef in a tortilla. Quite truthfully, the only real difference between tacos, burritos, enchiladas, etc. is the packaging. Take the stuffings from a taco and roll it in a flour tortilla and it becomes a burrito. Take the innerds of a burrito, roll it in a corn tortilla, top it with cheese and salsa, drink some beer, and it is magically transformed into an enchilada.

I then distinguish between a "recipe" and a "technique". A recipe for adobo can be many different things, it all depends on the particular technique you choose to apply. In fact, you can even choose to think of the words taco, burrito, enchilada, etc., as adjectives. Make some meat and "taco" it one day, "burrito" it the next, and "tamale" it the next. Also consider combining parts of different recipes and invent your own hybrid dishes-- anyone for burrencharamacos? Some combinations will be suggested and the rest is open for tacological experimentation.

---

The Basic Stash

Spices:

• Pure Chili Powder - Keep a jar of hot California Chili and Pasilla Chili-- the pasilla being the hotter of the two. New Mexico Chili is also very tasty and is usually quite hot. Packages are available in Mexican markets and it is far superior to the normal gringo chili powder one finds in spice racks. Gringo chili is a factory mixture of pure chili with cumin, garlic, salt, etc. By adding various spices to pure chili in preferential proportions, an amazing variety of subtle variations of a single dish are possible. If you can't find the pure stuff, the gringo will suffice but cut back on the other spices to your own taste.

• Oregano - Of course, fresh ground oregano is the best. If you only have access to the grocery store brands try to get Mexican Oregano.

• Thyme - The only time I use thyme [ha!] is in adobo, but it is essential to the recipe.

• Cinnamon Sticks - Although cinnamon is very common to many Mexican recipes, I only use it in adobo, and to cut to booze in Mexican coffee.

• Cloves - Cloves, is are free-wheeling spice than can be used, sparingly, in virtually any recipe. La Perla Taqueria in Campbell, California uses a subtle hint of cloves as a trademark for almost every dish. I suggest that after you are familiar with the recipes in this booklet you experiment with a pinch or two of this lovely aromatic. A "pinch" is a well established international measurement, which means "try a little and then add more if you want"

• Garlic and Garlic Powder - To keep garlic fresh for long periods, peel the cloves and keep them refrigerated in a covered jar with vegetable oil. To peel the cloves, give the entire bunch a sharp whack with a side of a cleaver or large knife. They will break open and the bare clove is easily removed. Use plenty of oil, as it can be added later to flavor salads and tortillas.

• Ground Cumin - This pungent powder is common to many Mexican recipes and is also known as cumino.

• Fresh and Ground Coriander - Fresh coriander is also know as Cilantro or Chinese Parsley. It comes in small bunches and must be kept refrigerated until ready to use. Coriander will only last a day or two. To use coriander wash the bunch with cold water and cut off the extreme ends of the stems. Some cooks say not to use the stems, but the green part is just as flavorful as the leaves and when cooked it all comes out the same. To use in meats, just throw a bunch in the pot. To use in salsas you may want to chop the leaves into finer pieces. Add fresh coriander to the lettuce when making tacos for a special tang

---

Canned and Packaged Goods 

• Hot Garden Vegetables - These pickled vegies are absolutely essential to shredded beef and enchilada sauce. Known as verduras escabeche in Mexico. they can usually be found with the pickles and relishes under the name of Hot Garden Mix. The recipes call for one 11 1/2 ounce jar for every two pounds of meat. I usually keep four jars on hand because they are often a bit difficult to locate. I have recently seen a version of these vegetables actually bottled under the name of "Mexican Mix." You can also custom make your own pickled vegetables at a considerable savings .

• Dried Chilies - Several types of dried peppers, chilies and pods are usually available in the international section of most markets. The dried chilies are a necessity for adobo and a great touch for any of the red meat recipes. Then let the chilies simmer covered in water for about 30 minutes until they are soft and pliable. Slit them open, remove the seeds, then lay them, opened, over the top of any red meat as it cooks. The bravo eater will then slice the cooked slices of hell into smaller pieces for inclusion in tacos, quesadillas, whatever.

  Dried chilies come in a variety of types, each having different flavors so subjective I will not attempt to describe the differences. My three favorites are the New Mexico, pasilla and chipolte (a dried, smoked jalepeno.) Note that there is a difference between the straight, dried chilies and chili pods. The pods are hotter!

• Canned Green Chilies - These are mild ancho chilies which are available either whole [and seeded] or chopped. Chopped is more convenient for cooking with meats, while I prefer the whole chilies in quesadillas and enchiladas. However, now that I think about it, the other way around sounds just as good. The more macho eater may prefer the canned jalapeno chilies in some dishes.

• Canned Chipotles - Chipotles are a type of roasted jalapeno with a flavor all of its own. I prefer the canned chipotles because they come in either a very hot adobo sauce or pickled [en escabeche]. Chipotles are used here for adobo, enchilada sauce and a special salsa called Scorpion Sauce.

• Peanut Butter - Yeah, Peanut Butter! Mexican cooks often use peanuts for thickening agents. I use it to add a very subtle flavor to enchilada sauce. I thought this was my exclusive trick but I recently saw it specified in a authentic Mexican recipe.

• Lard - Some people have problems with lard. In fact, I have a friend who opened a taqueria and refused to use lard in the beans. He was out of business in two months! Lard is okay - lard is our friend, and you can't make proper Mexican food without it. If you think lard will turn off your dinner guests, tell them you use manteca. Lard keeps virtually forever, even unrefrigerated. In a pinch bacon grease can be substituted, but lard is always preferred.

• Cooking Oil and Butter - Use safflower oil if possible. Don't substitute margarine for butter.

• Chicken and Beef Stock - Don't use the bullion cubes.

• Dry Pinto Beans - Keep about a pound on hand for Frijoles Refritos and Frijoles Borrachos.

• Canned Refried Beans - Yes, I'm serious! These things used to taste like dog food, but in recent years, the Rosarita brand "Spicy" canned beans have improved and can be very convincing when doctored with cheeses and a San Salvadorian cooking trick!.

• Beer - A serious disorder often contracted while preparing Mexican food is known as Chili Lips. Chili Lips can be quite painful and the only reliable treatment is massive quantities of beer. This treatment also often adds to the creative aspects of many of the dishes. I recommend a light lager, preferably a Mexican brand. Mexican beer is best served in its chilled can or bottle with a slice of lemon or lime on the top. Some chefs say that a bit of salt on the can will hasten recovery from Chili Lips.

  Beer is also a necessary ingredient in the cooking of shredded beef, carnitas, and chili verde, as it serves both as a tenderizer and a flavoring agent. Since a good Mexican chef always has an open beer on hand, it has become tradition to use beer any time extra liquids are needed for any dish.

• Tequila - use cheap tequila as a marinade for Carne Asada or Fajitas. If you plan to drink it, don't mess with the cheap stuff. And if you aren't up to swallowing the worm, this book is not for you!! (Actually the worms don't come in tequila, they are in Metaxca!) Tequila is not good for chili lips and will make them burn even more. If you drink enough of it, however, you won't care.

• Canned Tomatillos - These are small green Mexican tomatoes packaged in a brine-like liquid [escabeche]. They are also often packaged as Tomatillo Entero. I do prefer the canned tomatillos, as the liquid is part of the flavor. In the preparation of Chili Verde, plan on one 13 ounce can for each pound of pork.

• Canned Sauces - A large can of tomato sauce is needed for proper enchilada sauce. Some markets carry a reasonable brand of Salsa de Chili Colorado or Salsa Estilo which also works well. It is my experience that most canned enchilada sauces are not acceptable.

• Tortillas - Both flour and corn tortillas are needed as one or the other is better, depending on the dish. If a Mexican market is handy it is worth the trip to get them fresh. Some regular markets also have fresh tortillas available. Get the regular size unless you want to use the burrito version for large burritos. Many taquerias make tacos using the smaller 4 inch corn tortillas call tortillas chicas. These are great for feeding a lot of people, or if you are serving many different meats. They are harder to find, but out there if you look. You can even investigate the possibility of a local tortilla factory and give them a call. Tortillas can be kept for a day or two in a sealed refrigerated bag but beyond that they tend to crack and pick up weird flavors.

• Masa Harina - Masa Harina or corn flour is used to make tortillas and tamales. If you have access to fresh tortillas there is really no need to make them, but masa is absolutely necessary for tamales. It usually comes in large bags, and will store well in a sealed flour bin. If you have it around you should really try making some homemade tortillas.

• Cheeses - Some cooks make a big deal over using the correct Mexican cheeses. Although it adds to the authenticity, Mexican cheeses are usually only available in Mexican groceries and can be quite expensive. It has been my experience that, except for in quesadillas, the subtle flavor differences between Mexican and a good domestic Jack is lost among the other flavors. My only exception to this is in the use of queso fresco, and this is discussed below.
  Domestic Cheese - Have a package of both a good quality Monterey Jack and a Mild Cheddar or Colby on hand. My preference is for the mild red cheese, as a sharp cheese can interfere with some of the other flavors. For use in quesadillas and tacos, grate the cheese and let it sit at room temperature while preparing the other dishes. This brings out the oils and greatly enhances the flavor. The grated cheese will keep well in a refrigerated sealed bag for about 10 days.

  Mexican Cheese - The only two Mexican cheeses that I feel make a significant difference are Queso Fresco and what is known as Quesadilla Cheese or Quesillo de Oaxaca. Queso Fresco is the crumbly cheese you occasionally find, usually in minimal amounts, on top of tacos. Queso Fresco is great for holding steamed tacos together and the Quesadilla Cheese has a more pungent flavor than Jack Cheese. In a pinch Feta can be substituted for Queso Fresco.

  Cream Cheese - This is the secret ingredient for making canned Frijoles Refritos edible! Also try putting some cream cheese in an enchilada or taco or as a substitute for sour cream in tortas.

---

• White Onions - Always use white onions to cook with the meats.

• Green onions - Use green onions to make salsas.

• Lettuce - If you must use lettuce for tacos, mix it with chopped, fresh coriander.

• Oranges - To add special flavor to beef or pork, add a whole peeled orange.

• Avocados - Always use the Hass Avocados as they have a superior flavor. Try to buy them ripe. However, since they are sometimes at premium, take them as you can get them. To quickly ripen a hard avocado, place it in your flour bin, covered completely with flour, for about 8 hours.

• Chorizo - Chorizo is the "official" Mexican sausage, typically made from beef or pork, a variety of red chilies, and a lot of spices and other stuff you really don't want to know about. I prefer the beef chorizo as it is less oily. Chorizo can be used as a main meat or chopped, fried and added as a flavoring for just about anything from scrambled eggs [chorizo con huevos] to burritos, quesadillas and enchiladas.

• Sour Cream - Sour Cream goes well in just about anything-- quesadillas, tacos, burritos, over enchiladas, etc.

• Salsas - Lets face it, there are some great commercial salsas available and most stores will carry some homemade brands. The only salsa which really has to be made fresh is salsa cruda.

THE RECIPES

Shredded Beef

The first thing I do when trying a new Mexican restaurant is ask if the quesadillas are made with flour tortillas and if the tacos are made with shredded beef. If the answer to either is "no", I am immediately suspect of the nature of the food. A "yes" reply does not mean that you can immediately verify the nationality of the cook. However, it is a general clue that usually indicates that you may order with confidence. My recipe for shredded beef was discovered by pure accident and I thought I had stumbled across an ancient Aztec secret. Only quite recently I have learned that, in Mexico, it is very common to cook with pickled vegies. This method may, at first, seem a bit unorthodox, but it yields a spicy beef which is perfect for tacos, enchiladas, burritos, tamales, or even as a cold snack! The pureed extra vegies are the essence of one version of enchilada sauce, and may be used with the meat to make great 'ladas or frozen for use another day. This recipe makes about 20 large tacos. To make more, increase all the ingredients in equal proportions.
2 1/2 lbs. rump or any other beef cut
6 oz beer [drink the rest]
6 oz Cokeª
1 11 1/2 oz jar of hot garden vegetables
or
1 1/2 cups of homemade pickled vegetables [verduras escabeche]
with 1/2 cups of the pickling liquid
3 or 4 dried California or pasilla chilies
1 peeled orange [optional]
1/2 Tbsp. California chili powder
1/8 tsp cumino
1/8 tsp oregano
4 [or more] crushed garlic cloves


Don't be afraid to use fatty meat. Since it will be cooked beyond recognition, the fat can be removed later and will add to the flavor and texture while it cooks. Prepare the chilies by roasting them over an open flame or on a grill, just until they begin to brown. Then soak them, completely covered in hot water, for about 20 minutes or until they are soft and pliable. When they are ready, gently slit them down one side, rinse out the seeds, and lay them flat open on a paper towel. Don't rub your eyes as your hands are now lethal weapons! Cut the beef into quarters [not too small or they will be difficult to shred] and put all the stuff in a large pot and stir it up. The orange adds a definite sweetness which you may or not want. If you like it and are ever stuck for an orange use 1/2 cup of orange juice. This combination creates a very spicy filling which probably will not call for extra salsa if used in tacos. You can cut back on the bite by eliminating the dry spices. Add enough beer or water to just barely cover the surface of the meat. Lay the soft chilies over the top of the meat chunks and bring the pot to a rapid boil. Tightly cover the pot, lower the heat and simmer about 2 hours. If you are planning other dishes for the menu, you can work on them while the beef is cooking.

Preheat the oven to 350o. Remove the cooked meat and place it on a large cookie sheet, reserving the liquid and vegetables. With two forks shred the meat and arranged it neatly on the sheet so it will bake evenly. Ladle some of the cooking liquid onto the tray and place it in the oven. Bake the meat, turning it once, for about 1/2 hour. Keep an eye on it so it doesn't burn. The sugar in the Coke will serve to gently brown the meat and make it slightly crisp. In the meantime., continue with the preparation of the final cooking liquid.

Strain and reserve the cooking liquid from the vegies. Remove the orange and peppers [these are usually jalapenos, and you can leave them in if you want a rosy red ma–ana]. Puree the vegies with a bit of the liquid and then return 1/2 of the puree back into the remaining liquid. Save the remaining 1/2 puree for enchilada sauce [see e When the meat is a deep brown, return it to the liquid/puree mixture and cook it down until it is almost dry. Keep a bit of the juice which makes the meat easier to reheat. Keep the shredded beef covered in a warm oven until it is ready to use for whatever you what. The exception is enchiladas. Since the enchiladas have to be cooked anyway, it is best to let the beef cool before you try to handle it for stuffing the tortillas.

Verduras Escabeche

If you prefer to custom design your own pickled vegetables you will instantly become a master of verduras escabeche, which translates to "pickled vegetables." Now, knowing this does not yet make you a master. What elevates you to master status is the type and number of chilies you use-- and if you really leave them in while cooking the meat. It is exactly for this reason that I suggest you try making your own at least once. The basic advantage for me is that commercial brands do not include the red pasilla or New Mexico chilies. If you pickled them with the mix they add more to the flavor and can be left out of the rest of the recipe if you wish.

The process is to cook any choice of pickles, vegetables and chilies with distilled vinegar. Seal them in a jar and let it sit as long as you wish. The amount of each ingredient is dependent on your preference and the size of seal jar you have. My choice of ingredients are:

1/4 inch slices of carrots
1/4 inch slices of dill pickles
1/2 inch slices of cauliflower
large slices of white onion
New Mexico and or pasilla chilies
whole jalepeno or serano chilies
bay leaf
white vinegar


Slice open the red chilies and gently remove the seeds and veins. Take care not to rip or shred the peppers at this point. Place all the ingredients in a pot and add enough vinegar to half cover. Bring the vinegar to a boil and then simmer for about 15 minutes. Let the mixture cool and then place it all in a air-tight, sealed jar. If the vegies are not completely covered, add more vinegar.



---

Ropa Vienna

A neat variation on shredded beef is what is called ropa vieja [old clothes]. This is popular with my children because it looks so weird-- just like old shredded rags, hence, its name. But if your kids aren't into weird looking food you may want to skip it. Simply use an uncut flank steak for the meat and use the previous shredded beef recipe. When it is done, shred it in long strips with the grain using two forks, and proceed with the rest of the recipe. There is absolutely no difference in taste-- it just looks weird.


---

Carne Asada

Carne Asada literally means grilled meat, and may be served as a traditional steak, in small strips with fried onions, green peppers, and corn tortillas as fajitas, or chopped as a taco filling. This is the only Mexican recipe I have come across that actually requires a marinade. This particular marinade is serioso, as it's base is tequila! The recipe can be made in any amount so just experiment and adjust the marinade ingredients to the proportion of meat being used.
flank steak
dried California or pasilla chilies
safflower oil
finely chopped garlic cloves
finely chopped white or green onion
lemon and/or lime juice
tequila
Prepare the dried chilies by soaking them, completely covered in hot water, for about 20 minutes. You will need enough chilies to cover the flanks. When they are soft carefully slit them open and rinse out the seeds. Then set them, open, on a paper towel to drain.

Like Grandma's recipe for biscuits, the exact proportions for the marinade cannot be described in proportions known to mankind. Basically mix a lot of minced garlic, finely chopped onions with the Tequilla, and add a little bit of lemon and/or lime juice. Use a meat pounder or hammer and pound the meat between two pieces of wax paper until it is about 1/4 inch thick. Rub the flank steaks on both sides with oil, then rub them thoroughly with the marinade and let them sit several hours. If there is not enough liquid to cover, add a bit of beer. When you ready to cook, grill the meat on both sides as you like it. As the meat is cooking you can place the chilies on top for extra flavor.

The meat can be eaten a la carte like a good ol' American steak, or cut into 1 x 3 inch strips, with the grain, and used for fajitas. The fajitas are best served with soft corn tortillas, sliced fried onions, fried bell peppers, and the grilled red peppers. A neat way to do this is to fry the onions and peppers in lard or oil just until they are soft. Then arrange the meat and vegies on a round pizza tin and keep it warm in the oven while you warm the tortillas. Then place the tin in the middle of the table with the tortillas stacked on top and everyone go for it!



---

Chili Colorado

As a great fan of any piquant dish, I always wondered why most of the hot foods on this planet came from the southern regions. About the time I discovered the cure for Chili Lips, I realized it was because that is where the chilies grow! Of course, the spices are also used to preserve the meats as an alternative to refrigeration. There are reportedly 92 different varieties of chilies in Mexico so it is certainly no surprise that chili is an adjective with the potential of appearing in front of just about everything. Chili colorado means red or red-brown chili, and the dish is just what it says, meat stew cooked with a red-brown chili sauce. Chili Colorado is also known in Mexico as chili con carne-- not to be confused with the commercial American recipes, usually made with ground beef and beans. Chili lore supports two different origins of Americanized chili con carne. One version is that it was a variation made by the German population in south Texas. Another tale has it that it was invented by some nuns in Mexico, and was originally called carne con chili. I tend to discount the latter due to the fact that nuns are usually rather simple eaters and many are also vegetarians. Of course, maybe they just canned it and shipped to all the 7-11 stores in America. Call it chili colorado, chili con carne, carne con chili or the Nun's Revenge-- what we are talking about here is beef cooked in a rich, thick, and hot chili sauce.

The basic cooking technique for chili colorado is searing chunks of beef with onions and garlic in lard, then cook it in the sauce until done. What makes the difference, obviously, is the sauce. There are several ways to go about preparing a good colorado sauce, so I will offer a couple that consistently work for me. Restaurant chili colorado is usually quite saucy, and this is indeed how it should be. Taqueria colorado tends to be dryer because they are used in tacos and burritos, seldom served as a stew. You can control the amount of dryness to your own preference by adjusting the amount of liquids, or simply by cooking the stew to the desired consistency I usually serve chili colorado as a stew and then use it the next day for tacos, enchiladas or burritos. You can "sting" the chili at any point by adding a tablespoon or so of scorpion sauce. All of the versions suggested here begin by preparing the meat the same way.

The Meat:

2 pounds of beef [any cut] cut into 2 inch cubes
one large onion sliced into thin rings
4-6 [or more] crushed garlic cloves
4 Tbsp lard or safflower oil [lard preferred]
Heat the lard, add the onions and garlic, and sautŽ just until the onions begin to clear. Add the beef and sear only until most surfaces are gray. Do not brown the meat, as this will prevent the chili flavors from properly absorbing. When the meat is properly seared, strain off the excess lard and place it in the sauce of your preference. Bring to a boil, then cover tightly and simmer for at least two hours. Keep an eye on it to check that all the liquid does not dry out. After cooking, add a tablespoon of cornstarch, dissolved in warm water. Continue to cook down until it reaches a desired consistency.

The Colorado Sauce:

Here is where the variations come in. No matter which recipe you use, the Colorado sauce is made by adding the ingredients directly to the meat pot-- no need for extra pans.

Version 1 [the "you won't believe it but try it anyway method"]

I hesitated putting this version first for fear of scaring off anyone serious about Mexican eating. But it is simple, it works, and trust me.
1 commercial burrito mix*
one large onion sliced into thin rings
1 handful chopped fresh coriander
12 oz can of beer
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
Combine all the ingredients into the pot with the seared meat and add only enough water to cover meat.

* I am familiar with the mixes made by Lawry and Schilling, and I'm sure there are others. Although these are commercial mixes, they contain the correct spices for the beginning of a great colorado sauce.

Version 2 [more authentic]

This recipe is a bit more believable but still uses a commercial ingredient. Check out the Mexican section of your store [or visit a Mexican market] and see if they carry canned Salsa de Chili Colorado or Salsa Estilo. This also may appear as Red Chili Sauce or Salsa Rojo. These products usually come in either 10 or 19 ounce cans. Once you become familiar with your local resources you may wish to combine different sauces to personalize your chili. The tomato sauce is optional in case you want to sweeten up the sauce a bit.
1 large [19 oz] can of Chili Colorado sauce
4 oz. can of tomato sauce [optional]
one large onion sliced into thin rings
1 handful chopped fresh coriander
12 oz can of beer
1 Tbsp. cornstarch

Add all of the ingredients to the sauce and proceed to cook as in Version 1

Version 3 [Industrial Grade]

This is the real stuff- a bit more involved to prepare but certainly authentic. This recipe requires you to make your own chili sauce from scratch, and calls for about 1/2 cup of powdered red chilies. Do not use commercial chili powder. Powdered pasilla or New Mexico chili is usually easy to find. The New Mexico chili is hotter, so choose accordingly if you have a choice. If you can't locate the powder, substitute 8 dried chilies. Soak them in hot water until soft and then remove the veins. If you want to live dangerously, leave in the seeds-- this is where a good part of the heat lies. Blend the chilies in a bit of the soaking liquid to make a smooth paste and substitute this for the chili powder.
1/2 cup powdered chili or paste substitute
1/2 tsp oregano
1 tsp whole or powdered cumin
2 Tbsps flour
1 handful chopped fresh coriander
salt to taste
12 oz can of beer

After searing the beef, drain off all but about 1 1/2 tablespoons of the lard. Remove the beef, leaving as much of the onion and garlic as possible in the pot. Turn up the heat and bring the lard to a sizzle. Add the oregano, cumin, and flour, and cook for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly. This will produce a light brown roux. If you are using chili powder, mix it with 2 1/2 cups of water. If you made the chili paste, mix it with 2 cups of water. Add the chili liquid to the pot and cook it just until it starts to boil. Reduce the heat and cook for another 3 or 4 minutes. Return the beef to the pot, add the beer, fresh coriander, any extra water needed to top the beef, and cook like before. Let the stew simmer about 1/2 hour before taste testing for salt.

Version 4 [Sonoran Style]

I pulled the original version of this off of The Chili-Heads Web Page and added a few variations of my own. This recipe takes a bit of work but I guarantee it will result in some of the best Chili Colorado you will ever have. This is a Sonoran style dish and in Tucson (just north of Sonora) *every* Mexican restaurant you go to serves this dish. For variety I sometimes like to use different combinations of chilies. A favorite is a mixture of ancho, guajillo, New Mexico hot, pasilla and chipotle. Whatever combination you use, the chipolte peppers are essential,
2 lbs beef chuck, cut in bite size cubes
2 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 12 oz Mexican beer
water
6-8 dried chilies, break off stems and shake out seeds
4-5 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium onion, chopped
2 peeled potatoes, cut into bite sizes
1 Tbsp salt
1 Tbsp Mexican oregano (1 1/2 t if not Mexican)
1/2 Tbsp ground cumin
1/2 Tbsp ground cloves
1 1/2 Tbsp oil
1 1/2 Tbsp flour
Heat 2 Tbsp oil in heavy skillet. Add meat and cook until browned. Add 2 cups water and the beer, cover and simmer gently for 1 hour. In the meantime . . .

Prepare chili puree. Place chilies in large saucepan and cover with water. Put a vegetable steamer over the chilies so they stay submerged. Bring them to a rapid boil, the cover and simmer for at least 45 minutes. Remove the softened chilies from the heat, reserving the liquid, place them in the vegetable steamer and rinse with cold water.

Now this next step may require some gloves. If you are a seasoned chili master gloves are really not needed but what you touch afterward. Rinse each chili in cold water, carefully slitting it open and removing the seeds and stems. On a cutting board place the chili skin side down and use a spoon to carefully scrape out all of the pulp. With some chilies this will be earlier than others. Due to the size of the chipoltes this is very difficult to do so I just remove the seeds and stems and go for it.

Place the collected mound of pulp in a blender with about 1/2 cup of the reserved liquid and blend into a puree- about 1 minute. Place the puree in metal strainer and, using the spoon, push the pureed pulp through and reserve in a bowl.

When the meat is done stir in the chili puree. Mash the salt and garlic together to make a paste. SautŽ the chopped onion in 1 1/2 Tbsp oil until tender. Mix in the salt/garlic paste and 1 1/2 Tbsp flour. Stir 1 minute to get raw taste out of the flour and add mixture to simmering beef. Add cumin, pepper and oregano. Cover and simmer 2-3 hours. or longer.

45 minute before the meat is finished simmering add the potatoes.

If a thicker sauce is desired add a bit of butter and flour rue. Plop a pile of this on a greasy four quesadilla and with a cold beer and I guarantee that the meaning of life will instantly be obvious.



---

Carnitas

The word carnitas roughly translates to "little meats," and is a very traditional pork preparation. Carnitas are wonderful with salsa cruda in soft tacos, taquitos, or solo with quacamole and beans. In my opinion the best tamales are also made with pork. The use of orange and lemon creates a light flavor, and the cooking technique is almost the same as with shredded beef.
4 lb pork butt or any other port cut
12 oz Coke and 2 12 oz beers
2 peeled oranges and 1/2 peeled lemon
1/2 tsp cumino


Don't be afraid to use fatty pork. Like the shredded beef, it will be cremated and the fat can be removed later, adding to the flavor and texture while it cooks. Put one beer and all of the other stuff in a large pot and stir it up. If the meat is not covered, add more beer, water or chicken broth. If you want more of a bite to the pork, add an 11 1/2 ounce jar of hot garden vegies with the liquid. Bring the pot to a boil, cover and simmer about 2 hours. You should have one beer left over and now is the time to drink it. If you are planning other dishes for the menu, you can work on them while the pork is cooking.

Preheat the oven to 350¡. Remove the meat after it is cooked and place it on a large cookie sheet, reserving the liquid, fruits, and vegetables. With two forks, separate the meat into large bite-size pieces. Do not shred the meat but rather gently separate it into large chunks. Ladle some of the cooking liquid onto the tray and place it in the oven. Bake the meat, turning it once, for about 1/2 hour. Keep an eye on it so it doesn't burn. The sugar in the Coke will serve to gently brown the meat and make it slightly crisp. If the pork starts to get too dry, add more of the liquid. When baked to a deep brown, wrap the meat in tin foil and keep it warm in the oven until ready to serve. If you prefer spicier carnitas, return the meat to the liquid and continue to cook for another 20 or 30 minutes-- just until some of the liquid has been absorbed.



---

Chili Verde

Chili verde is a natural for sneak Mex-attacks. It is easy to prepare, and has that very natural Mexican flavor characteristic of your favorite South First Street taco stand. Here I think it is best to suggest two possible recipes. Version 1 is quite pungent, with large chucks of pork. This recipe cooks down to a dry stew that is best for inclusion in tacos, burritos, etc. Version 2 is a bit sweeter with smaller bites, and is best served as a stand alone stew. Of course, Version 1 is also great solo or served over quesadillas.

Version 1

1 1/2 to 2 lbs of pork
2 Tbsp. lard
2 13 ounce cans tomatillos
Two medium white onions
8 garlic cloves
1 7 oz can chopped green chilies
1 finely chopped bell pepper
juice of 1/4 lemon & 12 ounce can of beer
Cut the pork into large cubes about 2 inches square. Again, a more fatty cut of meat is quite acceptable. Slice the onions and finely mince the garlic. Fry them in the lard until the onions start to clear. Add the pork and fry just until all pieces are gray. Do not brown the pork, as this will seal the meat and the flavors will not be absorbed. Puree the tomatillos in a blender with all of the juice. Put everything else in a pot with the pork, onions, and garlic. If the meat is not covered, add more beer or water. Bring the pot to a rapid boil, cover tightly and simmer for at least two hours. If you plan on using the verde for filling, remove the cover for the last 1/2 hour of cooking to reduce the liquid. Check the stew regularly to prevent it from becoming too dry. If more liquid is needed, add beer! If a thicker, but not dry, stew is preferred, add a tablespoon of baking powder or flour dissolved in a bit of hot water toward the final simmer. This is great the next day.

Version 2

1 lb lean pork shoulder
2 Tbsp. flour
2 Tbsp. lard
1 white onion
4 cloves garlic
1 7 oz can chopped green chilies
1/4 tsp oregano
1/4 tsp dry coriander
1/4 tsp cumino
This is a variation of a recipe that came to me as Mama Unser's Green Chili Stew-- Mama Unser being the mother of the famed race-car driver, Gary Unser. Since then I have seen a version of this recipe published in the CHILI LOVERS' COOKBOOK [Golden West Publishers, Phoenix, AZ, 85104]. To protect me from copyright violation, you will just have to believe that I had it first!! This is a lighter verde which is more stewish than the previous recipe. Due to the smaller meat cuts, it is not as suitable for bulky fillings, but like Version 1, is great over quesadillas. I prefer the verde covered quesadillas made with white cheese.

Cut the pork into 1/4 inch cubes and dredge the meat in flour. Melt the lard in a pot or deep skillet, and brown the meat thoroughly. You can even go as far as frying the pork until it is crisp. I had my first "crunchy" chili verde at the City Cafe in King City, and this place has now become my standard stop anytime I travel Highway 101 in Central California. I was told by the cook that, when using this technique, the flour should be added after the pork is fried, and is only used to thicken the stew. Next, finely chop the onion and garlic, and cook them with meat mixture until the onion is soft. You might add a bit of fresh coriander if a little tang is desired. If a thicker stew is preferred, remove the cover for the final stages of the simmer.



---

Adobo

Adobo, although not yet is well known as other Mexican meats, is rapidly gaining popularity under the guise of tacos al pastor-- al Pastor , roughly translating to "in the shepherd's style." Adobo, or adobado, is a thick, red mole , or sauce, which can run the extremes between a light, sweet piquant to something reminiscent of lava! Adobo is commonly a uniquely spiced pork which makes an excellent filling for just about anything. It is also found in Filipino cooking, often using chicken or lamb as the basic meat. Pork, however, is the most popular ingredient for red Mexican adobo. The traditional method of cooking carne al pastor is well documented in Adventures in Mexican Cooking [Ortho Books, San Francisco, CA 1978].

"Another way to use meat cut with the grain is to cook it vertically on the ingenious barbecue made especially for the carne al pastor, sold at stands. Thin steaks cut along the grain are impaled in circular, staggered arrangement on a single spindle with a supporting dish at the bottom. This stacked pyramid of meat may be as large as a leg of beef.

The spindle of meat is suspended in front of a vertical charcoal fire stacked in a "fireplace" behind the spindle. As the spindle is turned before the fire, the cooked meat is trimmed off. The trimming quickly turns the stack into a smooth, tapered cylinder.

My methods are not as visually elaborate but they do work well in gringo kitchens. For this meat I'm going to again offer a couple of different approaches. Version 1 has to be totally credited to Senora Maria Maciel, who shared it with everyone at the 1987 Feria de la Bahia in San Francisco. Version 2 is still a light, semi-sweet recipe-- perhaps more suited to a "sit-down" affair. Version 3 is more hard-core and certainly more within the lava, chili-lip tradition.

ajonjoli = sesame seeds
canela = cinnamon
ajo = garlic
al gusto = fake it
If you want the English translation, and the missing steps, you have to go to the section on Pollo to both remind you to try this with chicken and to help you sing Cielito Lindo and Malaque–a Salarosa at the same time.

Para pollo or carne de cerdo.

3 chilies pasillas remojados
4 onzas de ajonjoli tostado con
las semillas de los chilies
1 tomate rojo cocido
1/2 tablilla de chocolate
canela, oregano, mejorana, pimienta,
ajo y sal: al gusto
Se muele todo lo anterior, se sazono con vinagre de vino o de manzana, y un poco de sal y azucar.

Got it?

What Senora Maciel assumes you know is to boil the meat, in moderately sized pieces, until done. Add the cooked meat to the adobo and heat it, gently, for a few minutes. We had this with the chunks of meat served on large, freshly made tortilla chips. This, of course, implies that it could also make a pretty tasty taco.

Version 3

This is a funkier approach to the same dish making use of chipotle or chipocle peppers, which are roasted jalapenos. There are a couple of different brands packaged in either adobo sauce or "escabeche", and available in Mexican groceries or Mexican food sections of gringo marts. Nothing can compare to chipotle peppers, so please don't try to substitute. The only real difference in the preparation of this version is the adobo sauce. Since the Chipotles usually come in their own adobo, a lot of the work is done for you. This version makes smaller amount because a little bit of Mexican fire can go a long way. If you need more, just increase the amounts of each ingredient proportionately.

To cook the Pork:

11/2 to 2 lbs pork [any cut]
1 sliced onion
4 chopped garlic cloves
6 to 8 peppercorns
Prepare and cook the meat just as in Version 1. Note that the amount of meat has been cut but the other stuff remains the same. This is not an error-- trust me-- have a beer!

For the adobo sauce:

Dried California or New Mexico chilies
1 7 oz can of chipotle pepper in adobo
1 tablet of Mexican chocolate
or 1 Tbsp Hershey's dry chocolate
1 Tbsp. white vinegar

Prepare the dried chilies as in version 1 and also remove the seeds from the Chipotles [without losing any of the sauce]. WORD OF WARNING!. The Chipotles are very serious critters. Many uninitiated or over enthusiastic cooks have met their match with terminal chili lips due to these little fireballs. Each brand generates a different heat and even the same brand can be inconsistent. Experiment with caution. Put everything in a blender and make a smooth puree. From here on everything is the same as version 1. So go and have another beer.

Pollo: Chicken

Remember kindly little Senora Maciel back of adobo fame? Well, here is where you get the translation of her recipe for gentle approach to this piquant mole and also reminded to try adobo with chicken. I had this served on large tortilla chips so the same presentation is suggested here. This can be used as part of the main meal or as a great appetizer.

• Chicken Adobo

  The chicken [or turkey]

The Adobo

* a metate is a flat grinding stone used for corn and peppers. They are usually available in Mexican markets and make great table decorations and a place to leave your car keys.

The Chips

Finally. . .

Stir the shredded chicken into the adobo and heat it through for a few minutes. Serve by arranging a few chips on a plate and topping each one with a spoonful of sauce and a couple of pieces of chicken.

Shredded Chicken (for Tacos and Enchiladas)

Preheat your oven to 350¡. Wrap the marinated chicken, along with some of the marinade [with the chili strips if you wish], tightly in aluminum foil and make sure there are no leaks. If you are using chili verde sauce, squeeze about 1/4 of a lemon on the meat before wrapping. If you are a fresh coriander freak, a few extra pinches of this wonderful weed will enhance the flavors. Bake the wrapped chicken for about 35-40 minutes or to your satisfaction. When done, unwrap the chicken, remove the bone, and gently shred the chicken and the chilies with two forks. Don't pulverize the meat-- it should be in bite-sized pieces rather than completely shredded like beef or machaca. Re-wrap the chicken and place it back in the warm oven until you are ready to use it for tacos, enchiladas, burritos or in tortas.

THE FIXIN'S

Beans

La fruita musicale! Essential fare for a Mexican feast. For years I lusted after the recipe used at the Super Taqueria on 10th Street in San Jose, California. Taqueria chefs tend to be very secretive about their methods and all I could get was a friend "No se!". My oldest daughter also shared my passion for the these beans and one day seduced the owner out of his secret. To quote him exactly "You take the beans, wash them then you cook them!" Lesson learned- don't mess with natures fruits. After years of experimenting with every conceivable combination of spice, great beans are made by just leaving them alone (perhaps with a bit of salt if you wish.)
1 lb. dry pinto beans 6 cups water 1 tblsp. salt or 2 tblsp.. butter (optional) Thoroughly wash the beans removing any weird ones. Bring to a boil in the water and cover and gently simmer at least 3 hours. If you wish to add slat or butter do so after one hour of cooking or the beans will become hard.

Frijoles Refritos

To set the record straight frijoles refritos does not mean Refried Beans. According to Diane Kennedy, author of the The Cuisines of Mexico*, the prefix re-, in this case, is used to emphasize the meaning of fritos. The correct translation then being well-fried beans or beans left on the heat too long due to the cook's treatment for chili lips. So that is a bit of trivia to drop the next time you want to make someone think you know what you're talking about at a Mexican dinner. Of course, this could be a bunch of re jive-- take your chances! If you believe that frijoles refritos means well-fried beans, you should have no trouble believing that reasonable beans can be made from commercially canned versions of the same. Every Mexican market I have been in is well stocked with canned frijoles refritos .so it is only logical to assume that they are really used by Mexican families. Actually, I would like to suggest three different ways of creating a bean dish, beginning with the more traditional method.

*The Cuisines of Mexico, New York, Harper and Row, Publishers, 1972.

Version 1: From Scratch

1/2 lb dry pinto bean or black beans
1 sliced onion
2 or 3 garlic cloves
4 Tbsp. lard*

1 tsp California Chili powder
1/4 tsp cumin
1 small package of cream cheese
medium handful of jack or cheddar cheese
1 4 ounce canned chopped green California chilies or
minced jalapenos [optional]

* Substitute bacon fat only in a pinch.

Cook the beans in a large covered pot for about 2 hours. Make sure the beans are well covered-- use at least 9 or 10 cups of water. Check every so often to make sure the water has not evaporated, and add more if needed. Prepare the lard by melting it in a large pan. SautŽ the sliced onion and garlic cloves. The goal is to only flavor the lard with the onion and garlic, so don't let the lard get too hot or anything get brown. When the onions are transparent, remove them and the garlic from the lard and figure out something to do with them! The flavored lard is characteristic of San Salvadorian cooking and adds a wonderful touch.

When the beans are cooked, strain them, leaving about 1/2 cup of the liquid and add them to the heated lard. When you pore the beans into the lard things are going to splatter, so take it easy. Immediately add chili powder, cumin, and then mash about half of the beans with something-- I use the bottom of a flat glass. Don't mash up all of the beans as they will become too mushy. Mix the beans well so they don't stick to the bottom of the pan when cooking. At this point add the green or jalapeno chilies if you want a minor bean rush. Finally, add the cream cheese and grated cheese, turn on a medium heat, and stir until everything is melted and mixed together. Reduce the heat to very low, continuing to cook the beans, covered, for at least 1/2 hour hour. Occasionally check that the beans aren't burning on the bottom. If they are, you may add a bit more lard or assume they are finished. The longer they can heat, the better they will be. They can be kept warm covered in a dish with foil in an oven for hours.

When ready to serve, you may wish to melt a handful of jack cheese on top of the beans by placing them under a broiler for a minute. Another way to serve frijoles refritos is to place individual portions on the plates, add a bit of jack or cheddar cheese on top, and heat the plates in a hot oven until the cheese is melted. Remember, beans are great inside tacos, quesadillas and essential to burritos.

Version 2: From Pre-cooked Beans

This is the same basic recipe as Version 1 but saves you the time of cooking the beans. I think the difference is insignificant but you decide for yourself.
1 large 30 oz can of cooked pinto
or chili beans-- without meat
1 sliced onion
2 or 3 garlic cloves
4 Tbsp. lard
1 tsp California chili powder
1/4 tsp cumin
1 small package of cream cheese
medium handful of jack or
cheddar cheese
1 7 ounce chopped canned green chilies
or minced jalapenos [optional]
Prepare the lard in the San Salvadorian manner by melting it in a large pan. Lightly saute the sliced onion and garlic cloves. The goal is to only flavor the lard with the onion and garlic, so don't let anything get brown. Remove the onions and garlic, and place the cooked beans, with their liquid, in the hot lard, taking caution against splattering. Immediately add chili powder and cumin, and then mash about half of the beans in the pan, mixing well. Again, take care not to mash up all of the beans as they will become too mushy. For a bean rush, add the chilies at this point. Finally, add the cream and grated cheese, turn on a medium heat and stir until everything is melted and mixed together. Reduce the heat to very low and continue to cook the beans, covered, for an hour or more. Occasionally check that the beans aren't burning on the bottom. If they are you may add a bit more lard or assume they are finished. The longer they can heat the better they will be. Refer to Version 1 for serving suggestions.

Version 3: From Frijoles Refritos

This recipe is still another variation on the basic technique but requires no extra spices and is a bit milder. If the Spicy beans are not available add the chili and cumin as in Version 2.

1 30 oz can of Rosarita "Spicy' Frijoles Refritos
1 sliced onion
2 or 3 garlic cloves
2 or 3 Tbsp. lard
1 small package of cream cheese
medium handful of jack or cheddar cheese
canned green chilies
or minced jalapenos [optional]
Prepare the lard in the San Salvadorian manner by melting it in a large pan. Lightly sautŽ the sliced onion and garlic cloves. The goal is to only flavor the lard with the onion and garlic so don't let anything get brown. Remove the onions and garlic and place the cooked beans, with their liquid, in the hot lard, taking caution against splattering. If you prefer the milder taste, leave the chilies out. But if you want to fake chili lips so you can drink some beer, at least play with the little devils at this point! I always have a can of beer sitting on the counter for general appearances. Add the cream cheese and grated cheese, turn on a medium heat, and stir until everything is melted and mixed together. Since these beans are precooked no extra simmering is required. However, the longer they can heat without burning the better they will be. Refer to Version 1 for serving suggestions.


---

Frijoles Borrachos

Frijoles Borrachos are definitely the King of Beans, and I have to admit that this is a slight variation of a recipe I found in Diane Kennedy's wonderful book, The Cuisines of Mexico* . I had been making Frijoles Borrachos for many years before I actually had some at a Mexican eatery. To refer to San Antonio's La Fogata as an "eatery" is more than a gross understatement, but their recipe for these wonderful stewed fruits confirmed that I was on the right track. Borrachos roughly translates to drunken or looped and usually refers to the common south of the border technique of cooking something in beer. Come to think of it, just about everything in this book is borrachos- how about author borrachos? I actually think the secret to the great flavor of this dish is the pork rind and the fresh coriander. These lusty beans keep well and like their cousins, frijoles refritos, go with anything-- but especially try them with chili verde.

To cook the basic beans:

1/4 lb pork rind or trimmed pork fat
1/2 lb pinto beans
1/2 sliced onion
4 crushed garlic cloves
You can get the little bit of rind or pork fat from your butcher and if he has any class he won't charge you. Cut the rind into quarters and put all the stuff in a large pot with about 6 cups of water. Bring it to a rapid boil, cover and simmer for about 2 hours. It is important to keep liquid in the pot. Do not drain the liquid when the beans are finished. For extra liquid, use water or beer. Remove the pork from the beans when they are finished cooking.

To Borracho the beans:

3 strips of bacon
2 Tbsp. lard
2 medium peeled and seeded tomatoes
or
1 cup canned tomatoes
1 Tbsp. canned chopped green chilies, serano chilies or minced jalapenos
1/2 cup rinsed and finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
1 12 ounce can of beer
salt to taste
Cut the bacon into small pieces and cook it in the lard until it is slightly browned. Add the tomatoes [with the juice if canned], chilies, and coriander. Cook the mixture for about 10 minutes. Add this mixture, and the beer, to the cooked beans. Simmer, covered, for about 1/2 hour [remember to remove the pork rind]. At this point, add only enough salt to bring the flavors to the surface. Take care that the beans remain soupy, not dry or pasty like frijoles refritos. Add more beer or water if needed.


---

Arroz a la Mexicana

Spanish rice is sort of like Thanksgiving dressing-- its a great stuffer or great as a separate dish. Rice can be added to burritos, as an accompaniment for quesadillas, or even used with cheese to make vegetarian tacos. Admittedly, there are some reasonable packaged Spanish rice products available, but the authentic stuff adds a few extra tastes. A word on the rice-- use a good quality, unconverted long grain rice. If you can get Persian or Basmati rice, give it a try. Rice is stored in talc and keeps a very long time. You will vastly increase the flavor by taking the time to rinse the rice with cold water until the water is clear. This takes 5 or 6 rinses but at least you can be assured you are not eating powdered rock!
1 cup rice
1/3 cup chopped white onion
2-3 cloves minced garlic
1/2 tsp. cumin
1/4 to 1/2 Tbsp. pasilla or New Mexico chili powder
2 peeled, seeded a finely chopped tomatoes
1/4 cup shelled peas
2 Tbsp. chopped pimiento
1/3 cup peanut oil
1 1/2 cups chicken broth
Heat the oil in a large frying pan and cook the rice until it is golden, about 10 minutes. Drain the oil from the rice. Add the onion, garlic, cumin, and chili powder an sautŽ, continually stirring, for about two minutes. Add the chicken stock, peas, pimiento, and tomatoes. Cook the mixture, covered, until all the liquid is absorbed.


---

Arroz Verde

Unlike the rather universal Spanish or red rice recipe, green rice exists in as many versions as there are people who cook it. In fact, I think the original recipe was to grab anything green that didn't move or smell weird and throw it in.
1 cup rice long grain
1/3 cup chopped white onion
4 sliced green onions
2 Tbsp. chopped or 1 whole green chili
1 chopped bell pepper
1 handful of parsley sprigs
2-3 cloves minced garlic
1/2 tsp. cumin
2 Tbsp. chopped pimiento
1/3 cup peanut oil
1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup beer
1/2 lb finely grated mild cheddar or jack cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh coriander

The Rice:

Clean the rice as described for arroz a la Mexicana. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and sautŽ the rice until it starts to turn gold. In the meantime, put all the vegies and spices in a blender with a little of the broth and blend it into a smooth puree. When the rice is ready, add the puree to the pan, mix well and cook another two or three minutes. Add the rest of the broth and beer. Bring the rice to a boil, cover, reduce the heat and cook about 15 minutes. Do not let the rice get too dry. If it seems to be drying too fast, add beer!

The Cheese:

The addition of a cheese and coriander mixture is optional. In taquerias the cheese is usually not used as it makes the rice more difficult to serve over longer periods of time. As a home dish, I do recommend adding the cheese the first time and seeing how you like it.

Preheat the oven to 350¡. Transfer the rice to a greased baking dish. toss the cheese and coriander together and sprinkle on top of the rice. Bake, uncovered for about 15 minutes or until the cheese is evenly melted. I have also seen similar dishes with the cheese and coriander mixed and baked into the rice.



---

Guacamole

A MOLE or more correctly "molli" is roughly translated as a mixture, and quaca-mole or avocado mixture certainly is that. The mixture can range from plain, mushed up avocados to such a collection of ingredients that the avocado really serves as only a binding to hold everything together! Taqueria quacamole tends to be very basic, usually consisting of no more than the avocados, lemon or lime juice, and a little salt. I would like to offer this basic recipe then suggest a list of "additives" which are all things that you will probably have leftover from other dishes. This way, the cook can mix and match according to availability and the whim of the moment.

Basic Mole:

2 ripe* Haas avocados
1 1/2 tsp. lemon or lime juice
1/4 tsp. pasilla chili powder
1/4 tsp. salt
Mix all the stuff together, mashing the avocado [save the pit]. If you prefer to have chunky guacamole, mix and mash with a fork. For smoother moles, it is easiest to throw everything in a blender or processor-- don't over blend or it will get soupy. A characteristic of avocados is that the pulp will rapidly turn brown when exposed to air. The lemon or lime juice will prohibit this a bit. Another trick is to put the mixture in a bowl with the pit placed in the middle-- makes a nice decoration also. The only other thing you can do is to cover and refrigerate the guacamole but still it won't last too long.

Additives:

Any number of the following ingredients can be used by mixing them with the basic mole. You may wish to start with proportionally larger batches of the mole so the avocado flavor is prominent.
more chili powder
1/2 tsp. ground coriander
fresh minced cilantro [coriander]
finely chopped white or green onions
diced canned California green chilies
finely chopped and seeded serano or jalapeno chilis
peeled, seeded and chopped tomato


---

Salsa Cruda

I know it is household practice to put shredded lettuce and chopped tomatoes on tacos but I have seen this in only very a few taquerias. This might be okay for fried, ground beef tacos but this collection of recipes does not include ground beef tacos. The "cruda" of this salsa refers to the fact that it is uncooked. I make up a batch and keep it in a tightly covered container for a couple of days. Beyond that it gets too limp and watery to use. Salsa cruda is usually served as a side dish to carnitas but works wonders on any meat dish and tacos of any sort. You can even serve the salsa on good old American steaks! Like it's verde cousin guacamole, this basic recipe can be expanded with practically anything that happens to be laying around. Especially consider using hotter chilies to give you an excuse for having a beer.
1 peeled, seeded and chopped tomato
1 bunch [about six] green onions
1/4 cup canned diced California
or serano chilies [seeded]
1 bunch minced fresh cilantro
1/4 tsp. lemon juice and a pinch of salt
Finely chop the green onions, including a good portion of the green stem. Mix everything together in a bowl. This recipe can be proportionately expanded, but remember that the salsa only keeps a couple of days.


---

Salsa Verde

I mentioned somewhere that there are some very acceptable, and in many cases, excellent, salsas available as a commercial product. I do have to qualify that a bit as I was referring to the red salsas. I have yet to find a truly robust green salsa outside a home or good taco stand. My preference is salsa verde over salsa rojo as the bite of the tomatillos mixed with the tang of the garlic seems to generate a deep flavor characteristic of only the green salsas. Salsa verde is best when it is fresh but will keep refrigerated and covered for about a week. It is important to serve the salsa at room temperature. When it is cold it looses its rich flavor. Salsa is typically served on meats, but give it a try inside or on top of a quesadilla or over scrambled eggs. [Try salsa on pizza, but don't tell anyone you read about it in a Mexican cookbook!]
1 10 oz can pureed tomatillos
2 or 3 chopped jalapenos
2 to 4 finely chopped garlic cloves
1/4 finely chopped onion
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro 2 Tbsp. lime juice
1 4 oz can of diced California chilies
a pinch of sugar and salt to taste
Puree the tomatillos in a blender and add everything else! If it is too thick, add a bit of beer. If you want a thicker salsa, the mixture can be cooked in about 2 tablespoons of peanut oil.


---

Scorpion Sauce

Now I have to admit that there is probably nothing in Mexico call Scorpion Sauce and I actually stole this name from Huntley Dent's The Feast of Sante Fe.* I have had this type of salsa served at taquerias on several occasions and have been making my own version for some years. This rather thick "sauce" is extremely hot and I use it both as a dip and to "sting" any dish that needs that extra handshake from hell. Therefore the name "Scorpion Sauce" seemed perfect- thank you Mr. Hunt. My original recipe calls for New Mexico chilies For a more barbecued flavor, and heat,, substitute a couple of seeded Chipotles [with the marinade] and two grilled, softened and seeded New Mexico, Pasilla, or California chilies. This salsa will keep a long time in the refrigerator because nothing will dare to come near it.

More salsas are suggested in the section on enchiladas.

6 soaked and seeded dried chilies of your choice
or substitute 2 of the chilies with 2 canned Chipotles
[remove seeds-- keep the marinade]
4 crushed garlic cloves
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
Add all the stuff to a blender and puree until very smooth. If more liquid is needed, use some of the water used to soak the chilies.

Now if you spend some time watching a typical taqueria ritual you will find that these guys move like lightning. A first rate Ninjo grill chef has nothing on a good taqueria assembly line. If one person is doing the assembly, every move comes from years of experience reaching for a handful of this and that and then reaching for a beer. If there are several persons involved, each has his own particular task which must performed with speed, assurance and all kinds of weird stuff on their hands. Part of the art of Mexican peasant food comes from the fact that a bit of the green salsa gets mixed in with the sour cream and some of the white cheese ends up in the chili verde. My point here is that you are to have fun with this stuff. As long as your hands are clean, why not be sloppy? You just might discover a new recipe!

---

Quesadillas

Ah, the quesadilla-- the unsung quickie queen of taqueria cuisine! Like the great American grilled cheese sandwich, the taste of a quesadilla is somehow much more than the sum of its parts. In its basic form, a quesadilla is no more than a grilled, cheese-filled flour or corn tortilla.

Exhaustive research into the genealogy of this elusive Latino lady indicates that it exists as the Southwestern quesadilla, enchiladas del Sanctuario, "Mexican turnovers," and even as a form of lemon-cheese tart, also known as a quesadilla! But when it comes to the munchies, a fried quesadilla is a tortilla filled with cheese and practically anything else that sounds good. Served cut in slices like a pizza for hor d'oeuvres or covered and stuffed for a main meal, the quesadilla is unmatched in its ease of preparation.

The basic cooking technique involves no more than placing a lightly buttered or larded tortilla on a grill and waiting a few moments until it becomes soft enough to fold. Put a handful of your favorite cheese on the tortilla and fold it in half, then grill it lightly on both sides. As simple as that seems, dealing with our finicky "queen" raises many options and some regal decisions must be made. First of all does, one use a four or corn tortilla? I am told that the original quesadilla was made of a flour tortilla, stuffed with cheese, sealed and deep-fried in oil or lard. Some quesadilla connoisseurs claim that the only authentic quesadilla is one which is deep-fried. If this is the case, there are an awful lot of taquerias out there selling counterfeits! My own particular choice for the tortilla is flour. Flour tortillas seem to grill much better and certainly grills faster than the corn. The flour tortilla is also more pliable, making it easier to scoop the frijoles, guacamole, etc. Actually, the real reason is that one can usually find very large [burrito size] flour tortillas so you can have more food in a single quesadilla. Many of my friends seem to prefer corn tortillas quesadillas stuffed with various meats. The flavor of the corn is usually well complemented by meats. For a great treat, try a corn quesadilla covered with your favorite syrup-- probably not very authentically Mexican, but who cares!

Another preparation technique is to very lightly l butter a flour tortilla and then quickly rinse the butter side with cold water. This will produce a dryer quesadilla with considerably less fat.

What of the cheeses? First grate the cheese and let it stand at room temperature for a while. This will get the oils running and really does make a difference in the taste. The choice of cheese depends on your mood, availability, and maybe on what you are going to serve it with. I tend to use either mild cheddar or Colby for red cheese and Monterey Jack for white cheese. I suggest a mild red cheese so that it is distinctive from the sharper cheese normally used in enchiladas and tacos. I have found that red cheese quesadillas complement beef dishes while white cheese quesadillas are better with pork. There is a special "quesadilla cheese" available in Mexican markets. I have tried this and found it to be quite expensive and not all that special. If you want to try something a bit different use Queso Nudo or Queso Oaxaca [quesillo de Oaxaca]], sometimes known as "Mexican string cheese." If you can't find this, use equal amounts of mozzarella and Jack cheese.

Now our regal queen, like all ladies of stature, requires a suitable wardrobe. Quesadillas are typically topped with frijoles, guacamole, salsa, and/or sour cream. Try placing two quesadillas in a large plate and covering them with chili colorado [use red cheese] or chili verde [use white cheese]. If you want a lighter preparation, just cover the quesadillas with a bit of the colorado or verde sauce. You can also fill them with meats of any type, onions, tomatoes, chilies, and olives-- creating an obese but delightful dish. Another option is to add a couple of tablespoons of your favorite salsa to the quesadilla as it is cooking. As one side is frying, spread the salsa on the top of the quesadilla. Turn the beauty over and actually fry the salsa into the tortilla. Repeat for the un-salsad side, if desired.



---

Tacos

If the quesadilla is the reigning queen of taqueria technology, then the taco must be the king! Maybe this regal anthropomorphism is slightly stretched, but at least the implication of gender, taco and quesadilla, is present. I am told that the taco has its origin as an appetizer or antojito, meaning "little whim or urge". If the word "taco" could be translated it would mean "snack". My own initial memories of tacos are as large, flour tortilla pockets of meat, sold from roadside stands near the Mexicali border. In Mexico and in a few American taquerias the tacos are, in fact, smaller than the grocery story variety. A typical antojito taco is made from a 4 inch tortilla, often referred to as a tortilla chica.. If you have several different innerds* available, these smaller tortillas are great because one can sample more varieties and combination of stuffings. The 4 inchers are difficult to find, but do occasionally show up in markets. I perform selective surgery on the standard 6 inch corn tortillas by trimming a 1 inch strip from around the circumference. This produces the 4 inch antojito size, and the strips then are used to make fried chips. An alternative is to make your own tortillas, and it is worth it if you have the time-- any Mexican cookbook will provide both corn [maiz] and flour [harina] recipes. If you use store-bought corn tortillas, look for "white tortillas." These are made of bleached corn and have a lighter taste. Some stores have fresh delivered tortillas on certain days-- check it out and plan your Mex-Attack appropriately. If a Mexican market is convenient , shop there for the tortillas-- fresh tortillas make a significant difference!

* My editor says there is no such word as "innerds", but he fell for the story about Taco the Indian So now there is a word called "innerds."

Taco Lore

Of course, the correct taco is just as elusive as any other Mexican dish and differs tremendously from eater to cook to region. Tacos can be made of either flour or corn tortillas. Tacos can be fried [hard], steamed or heated [soft], stuffed with an endless variety of meats from shredded beef [machaca] to brains [sesos], Tacos can be vegetarian, using only cheeses, beans, rice, and chilies. Tacos can be served open faced, much like a tostada or folded in the traditional manner. This then defines the taco as a tortilla with stuff in it! And by this definition a quesadilla is really a fried cheese taco, and a baked taco is an enchilada, and a burrito is a rolled taco! And now we understand why the taco is king! There currently is an international feud in progress concerning the soft taco versus the fried or hard taco. Most yuppie happy-hour-hang-out-havens serving "Mexican" appetizers will make sure that their customers understand that they are getting the original soft tacos-- as if this is some new ethnic discovery. Most, but not all, taquerias take soft tacos for granted.

Yuppie feuds aside, the fact is that different regions of Mexico vary tremendously in their preferences between hard and soft tacos, as well as the use of flour versus corn tortillas. These are indeed significant questions and I feel that we should sit down and have a beer and discuss, in detail, the ramifications of these parameters. Or maybe we should sit down and have a beer and discuss what is meant by "parameters". Or maybe we should just sit down and have a beer followed by a couple of tacos, and then decide. This way we don't need to know what "parameters" means. There are some considerations which may be influential to your choice if you are new to this. Corn tortillas are heavier and sturdier-- flour tortillas are lighter but are bigger!! I find that the lighter meats and vegies go well with flour tortillas, as they do not intrude on the tastes of the individual ingredients as much. I f you plan to stuff the tacos with a lot of tomatoes and lettuce, the flour tortillas compliment the coolness of the vegies better than corn. Corn tortillas have a great flavor that is well complimented by the spicier innerds such as adobo and shredded beef. Fried tortillas are great when they can be served and eaten immediately. If they sit, around for even a few minutes, they get stiff and cold. And cold grease is not my idea of a great meal. In fact, warm grease in not too appetizing and this indicates my preferences about how to prepare tacos. Fried tacos, however, may be the correct choice if the meat is a bit liquidy, as is sometimes the case with chili verde and adobo.

Pre-Production - Soft Tacos:

Perhaps the first taco ritual involved sitting at a table, scooping up meats and beans with fresh, warm tortillas-- much like our famous bread and gravy rituals we used to get our hands slapped for as children. Since Mexican culture does not condone beating their children, the soft taco has endured through the ages and is my favorite format. There are several methods for the preparation of soft tacos, each with a slightly different result. First of all, start with fresh corn tortillas (get the white tortillas if available). The easiest method is to simply lay the tortilla on a warm grill or pan until it is heated and somewhat pliable. The only disadvantage is the number of tortillas you can warm is limited by grill space. An alternative is to place several tortillas on a large cookie sheet any warm them in the oven. Tortillas can be kept warm at the table [somewhat] by keeping them in a covered casserole dish. Another method, and my preference, is to place the tortilla on a hot grill, top it with a bit of cheese, and cover it with a pan lid. Let it steam as its own liquid evaporates and until the cheese is melted. This is a nice technique as the melted cheese will keep the tortilla warm longer. I've seen instant steamers used in several taquerias, but my attempts with home steaming have only produced things best described as Mexican diapers.

Soft tacos cannot be pre-assembled and are best dealt with on an individual basis-- which is the best way in any case. One possibility for serving guest, however, is to serve the taco filled but open-faced, resembling a tostada. The salsas and other Layer 3 extras are added at the table and the tacos is folded by the individuals.

Hard Tacos:

Hard, or fried tacos are more of an American norm and probably more suited to large group consumption. I think, however, that we all have had the unfortunate experience of taking our first bite into a hard taco, only to have it disintegrate, depositing its entire contents on our lap. This, of course, is referred to as a lap taco [taco de regazo? ]. Hard tacos can be dealt with if properly prepared-- to re-quote a famous Mexican proverb from Diana Kennedy*, "no deben tronar" (they must not thunder) -- although I'm not sure if this refers to tacos or beans! There are two things that matter when creating a reasonable hard taco- the oil or lard and the folding technique. The oil must be very hot so the tortilla fries quickly. A low heat will result in a oil soaked tortilla which cools very quickly and tastes like something that came from under your car. A technique for achieving the proper temperature is to put one or two drops of water in a pan or skillet (use the heaviest possible pan you have) and then add no more than 1 inch of oil or lard. Turn the flame to high and when the sputtering and spitting stops, the oil is ready. To fry the tortilla a set of tongs is necessary. It can also be done with a pair of chopsticks but I would not recommend this for beginners. Grab the tortilla by the edge with the tongs and slide it into the oil. Keep hold of the tortilla and let it set in the oil for about three seconds. Taking care not to rip the tortilla, gently lift it out of the oil and turn it over, sliding it back into the oil. Immediately lift the edge you are holding with the tongs out of the oil and fold it back over on itself, holding the elevated half about 2 inches above the surface of the oil. Fry for between 3 and 7 seconds [no more], release the top edge, grab the emerged edge, flip the tortilla and fry the other edge in the same manner, holding the fried half out of the oil. Three seconds of frying per side produces a relatively soft tortilla and the seven second fry generates a crisper result-- in any case, do not over cook.

This will produce a perfect fried taco with just the right fold for your choice of fillings. Place the inverted tortilla on a paper towel to drain for a minute and you are ready to assemble. Fried tortillas can be kept warm for a short time in a covered basket lined with napkins. They can also be kept in a warm oven by hanging them over the oven rack.

Post-Production and Assembly

As discussed in Taco Lore, this creature can contain just about anything you wish. A delicious vegie taco can be made of cheeses, avocados, green chilies and cilantro. Bean tacos, a corn tortilla stuffed with frijoles refritos, rice, and cheese are wonderful. Or you can become as carnivorous as you wish with any of the beef, pork, lamb or chicken concoctions suggested in this collection. I tend to construct tacos in layers. The first thing that goes in is really meant to soak up the juices of whatever else goes on top. The middle layer is the body of the taco, providing the main flavor. The top layer is the extras, usually a light vegetable with chilies or salsa to provide the extra zing.

Layer 1: This layer provides a "bed" for the main ingredients to sit on, absorbing any extra liquids and, of course, providing some extra input to the taste. If you are using soft tacos with melted cheese, just consider the cheese as the first layer, although you may consider adding some diced or sliced green chilies. Slices of softened and seeded New Mexico or California chilies in the bottom [or top] also provide a familiar tang. If the tortilla doesn't have melted cheese, try adding a small spoonful of queso fresco or Monterey jack. Once out of desperation I even used parmesan in Layer 1 and have used it again on many occasions.

Layer 2: To each his own! Try anything and everything-- .shredded beef, carnitas, chili verde or colorado, adobo of pork, lamb or chicken, etc. The only consideration is to avoid as much liquid from the meat as possible. Although a serious taco eater will usually develop a technique of holding the taco with the little finger in the rear fold of the tortilla. This acts as a dam, holding the innerds intact.

Layer 3: The final layer is largely determined by whatever will complement the two previous layers and this is a matter of preference. I will, however, offer a couple of points for consideration. If you add salsa or red chili put it on top of the meat. The meat is what you are trying to spice up, not the cheeses or vegetables. Red salsa goes best with beef and lamb and green salsa and green chilies go best with pork and chicken.

Beware of building a compost pile on top of the taco. I have been served tacos that contain so much lettuce and sliced tomato that it begins to resemble a Mexican Victory Garden. The vegies are meant to add as much texture as flavor so don't overdo it. Instead of plain lettuce try mixing fresh chopped coriander with the lettuce. This really freshens up the taste. If you want to get really fancy add a couple of slices of avocado. An authentic alternate to the lettuce and tomato is salsa cruda. This combination of onion, chilies, and coriander usually requires nothing else except perhaps an avocado.

Extra cheese can be used as a final layer. Quite frankly, I tend to pack the cheese in to keep the other stuff from falling out, thus avoiding the legendary lap taco. The choice of cheeses is yours but I tend to stick to the 'white for pork and chicken, red for everything else' format. A pinch or so of queso fresco or queso anejo is great to top off your creation.



---

Taquitos

If you have ever been to Los Angeles' famous Olivera Street, I'm sure you are familiar with the small, rolled tacos deep frying in cauldrons of oil. My first introduction to taquitos was as a musician in San Diego during the early 1960s. Every night, after a gig, we would pile in any available car and go to a small Mexican drive-through where we could buy two of these tortilla tubes of wonder for a quarter. Today these simple little nibbles are very popular on Mexican menus as flautas [meaning flutes], and usually stuffed with chicken Under the guise of flautas, the taquito is usually so smothered in sour cream and guacamole that the essence of taco is lost. I prefer the original taquito format-- a small corn tortilla, rolled with whatever is handy, deep fried to a crispy brown, and served immediately.

You can use regular size corn tortillas, but I prefer the 4 inch, mini-tortillas, if you can find them. To assemble a taquito, warm the tortilla very quickly over a flame on a grill, just so it is pliable and easy to roll. Place a bit of your choice of meat and/or cheese on the lower half of the tortilla and roll it tightly into a tube. Stick a toothpick through the rolled tortilla to hold it closed while it is frying. Heat oil in a pan large enough to fry 3 or 4 taquitos at time. The oil should be hot enough so the tortilla cooks quickly, without absorbing any liquid. Put the rolled tortillas in the hot oil, turning them once. While they are frying prepare the next batch. When they are golden brown, remove them for the oil and place on a paper towel to drain. As they are drying, sprinkle with a bit of parmesan or queso fresco. When they are dry, remove the toothpick, and eat them as soon as possible. A good red salsa is essential for the proper enjoyment of taquitos. Sour cream and guacamole are acceptable if kept under control.



---

Burritos

In some segments of our American culture "B and B" stands for Benedictine and Brandy. In more relevant segments of our society "B and B", or more properly "B & B", unmistakably refers to Burritos n' Beer. Although the burrito is the American national trademark of taqueria cuisine, it is also somewhat of an enigma-- a food of rather eclectic genealogy, questionable etymology and hybrid nationality. The burrito is at best described as a creature somewhere between a stuffed and rolled quesadilla and a dry enchilada, whose name means "small jack-ass." Its origin is shunned by many Mexicans, claimed by most Americans, and is indigenous to taco stands! The majority of my travels in Mexico have been limited to border towns where one can buy a burrito on every corner. But I have been told that the further one forages into Mexico, the rarer the famous burrito becomes. When I asked for a burrito in Puerto Vallarta they thought I wanted to rent a dune buggy! I can only speculate what I would have got if I had ordered a burrito grande, as this properly translates to "a large, little jack-ass." Elena Zelayeta, an authoritative master of Mexican cuisine, chose not to include the burrito in her book, Elena's Secrets of Mexican Cooking* but does cite it as a California favorite in her Elena's Favorite Foods California Style **!!! Two sources I have referred to in attempting to trace the burrito's genealogy state that it is no more than a type of taco made with wheat flour tortillas and referred to as "burro" in most of eastern Mexico. But whatever these burrito-things are, I have yet to see a taqueria that doesn't serve them. In fact, the quality of many taquerias is often measured by their burritos. The Burrito King in Los Angeles and the Super Taqueria in San Jose are two examples of taquerias renown for miles on the solely on the basis of their burritos. The only thing really necessary to the creation of a burrito is a large flour tortilla [never corn] and some beans. Many cookbooks say something to the effect of "simply roll the beans, cheese and your favorite meat . . . ". The fallacy here is the word "simply." The key to a great burrito is how to get all the goodies in and still do a roll which will hold it all together. I will talk about "rollin' the burro" after we consider the inside story.

Stuffin' the Burro:

As previously stated, the basic burrito is a handful of beans and cheese rolled up in a flour tortilla. Frijoles refritos or frijoles borrachos work equally well. If you use frijoles borrachos, take care not to get too much liquid or the tortilla will get soggy and fall apart. My preference for cheese in burritos is a good jack or Mexican white cheese and this is especially true if you add pork or chicken. With beef you may prefer a red cheese such as a sharp cheddar. If you are also having quesadillas, another consideration is a different cheese for each dish, adding variety. Another innerd found in a burrito is rice. Either arroz a la Mexicana or arroz verde is fine, but again, the arroz verde will go best with chili verde or chicken tacos. Don't go overboard on the rice as the basic flavor of a burrito comes from the beans and cheese. If you want to attempt the burrito grande use beans, cheese, rice, meat, and a couple of slices of avocado. Another way to create this "large, little jackass" is to drink a lot of Mexican beer and tequila! I realized that "large" and "little" are mutually exclusive but if you get into a state of burrito grande you don't really care. Just don't get so borrachoed that you can't properly "roll the burro." If you want an extra kick add salsa to the inside of the burrito-- never the outside. The salsa is meant to flavor the innerds, not the tortilla.

Rollin' the Burro:

Although a burrito can be made from virtually any size flour tortilla, I recommend using the large "burrito size" 10 inchers. They are much easier to roll and hold more stuff. The key to a good roll is to have a pliable tortilla. You can apply any other techniques used with soft tacos to soften the critter up. I actually prefer to lightly butter the tortilla and set it on a warm grill for a few seconds. Then fill the tortilla with the buttered side down. In this manner, the outside of the burrito will not harden while being kept warm in the oven. The basic roll is illustrated below. First spread a couple of tablespoons of beans on the lower half. I actually prefer frijoles refritos as they act as sort of a seal, holding in any juices from the meat. Next add your choice of meat [if any], followed by a palm full of cheese and, if desired, avocado. Remember to add any desired salsa at this point. Keep all of these innerds centered on the lower half of the tortilla. As illustrated below, roll, do not fold, the lower half of the tortilla, with the innards up, leaving the top half still flat. Fold the two outer edge flaps in toward the center, then complete rolling the tortilla forming a neat package.



If you used lightly buttered tortillas, the burritos will stay warm in an oven for about 10 minutes before they start to dry. If you need to keep them warm for longer periods, I would suggest wrapping them individually in aluminum foil. If this is the case, don't use liquid meat or beans as they will fall apart. If you want to get sort' Ex- or gringos, try making a wet burrito. After assembling the burrito, cover it with the sauce from the meat you are using or any one of the enchilada sauces discussed in the next section. Top it with grated cheese(s), and stick it in a hot oven until the cheese melts. The basic point of taqueria cuisine, however, is that you pick it up and eat it with your hands and this is rather difficult with a "wet, hot, large, small jackass."



---

Enchiladas

Enchiladas are not typical taqueria food because they are inefficient to make in individual servings and not very portable. I am, however, including them because they are the great food compactor of Mexican cuisine. Whatever you have left over, make enchiladas with it. And don't limit the innards to Mexican stuff-- after-Thanksgiving Turkey enchiladas are a great way to finish off the leftovers. At the same time don't hesitate combining different things. A good enchilada sauce can be the ultimate equalizer, blending the flavors of otherwise contrasting dishes. If you make too much of any of any of the Mexican meats, use them to stuff a bunch of enchiladas. Put them, three or four at a time, neatly rolled in a sealed freezer bag. When you wake up in the morning and find a Ex-attack in process, simply take a bag out of the freezer and set it on the sink. By lunch the "ladders will be thawed and can be easily finished by heating them in tomato sauce, covered with cheese.

In Mexico, the enchilada is usually no more than a softened corn or flour tortilla, dipped in a rich chili sauce and stuffed with cheese and raw chopped onions. I have seen Mexican recipes for more elegant approaches to the enchilada with various meat, vegetables, and sauces which could compete with the finest delicate French sauce recipes. My approach to enchiladas makes absolutely no pretenses about being delicate. They don't quite sing Malaguena Salarosa, but they are robust, demanding massive consumption of beer.



---

The Sauces

The first thing to remember about enchilada sauce is to make plenty of it. You need it to dip the tortillas, and to completely cover the assembled, stuffed tortillas so they won't dry out when baked. I have found that some very good sauces can be made by starting with a plain tomato sauce. The most basic recipe, and the one most favored by many cooks, is to simmer a large garlic clove in the tomato sauce for an hour or so, taking care not to burn. I have been told to then discard the garlic but I can usually find some use for it. If you are using a highly spiced meat for the enchiladas, you may wish to stop production at this point. Plain tomato sauce with garlic is excellent with something like shredded beef enchiladas. If you are more daring in your enchilada explorations then read on. I use the basic technique of adding something to tomato sauce and the something can be just about anything that comes to mind. My something list ranges from chili to nuts, so let me offer a couple of suggestions. You can also sting any of these recipes with scorpion sauce.

Salsa con Hair



The reserved cooked hot vegetables
from the shredded beef recipe
1 12 oz can tomato sauce
1 teaspoon peanut butter
This is my favorite, and goes best with shredded beef. The essential ingredient, in fact, is the leftover, cooked hot vegetables used to prepare my recipe for shredded beef. If you want "extra hair", leave the jalapenos in-- if your tastes are a bit more sensitive, I would suggest picking them out. Place the cooked vegies, along with a teaspoon of peanut butter and a bit of tomato sauce, in a blender and puree the mixture. Pour the puree and remaining tomato sauce into a sauce pan. Cover and simmer about an hour without burning.

Son of Salsa con Hair

This version is the same as its father but add a small can of commercial red chili sauce or chili colorado sauce. If you can't find a commercial chili or colorado sauce use a couple of dried and roasted red California chilies Soak the chilies in hot water for about 1/2 hour then remove the seeds. But them in a blender with some tomato sauce and make a puree to be added to the remaining sauce.

Other Son of Salsa con Hair

Substitute the tomato sauce with a combination of red chili sauce and colorado sauce. Due to the pungency of the combined sauces you may wish to eliminate the hot vegies.
1 12 oz can tomato sauce
2 cloves
3 large cloves garlic
1/4 inch stick cinnamon
a pinch of oregano
1 tablet Mexican chocolate
or 1 tsp. Hershey's Coco [optional]
2 Tbsp lard
Due to the use of chocolate, this might even qualify as a mole. This, however, is not the goopy chocolate mole served on fowl dishes, but a much lighter sauce for mild enchiladas. Blend everything, except the tomato sauce, into a smooth puree and cook in the melted lard for about 5 minutes. Continue to stir the sauce so the chocolate does not burn. Add the tomato sauce and continue to simmer over a low flame for about 1/2 hour. You can add bite to this usually delicate sauce with some scorpion sauce, or by adding a couple of blended chipotles to the mixture.

Verde Enchilada Sauce

This is a light sauce that goes well with chili verde or pollo. It is also great with cheese enchiladas made with Monterey jack and onions.
1 large quartered white onion
2 peeled tomatoes
1 4 oz can chopped green chilies
1 quartered bell pepper
3 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp. lard 1/2 cup chicken stock or broth
2 cups sour cream
Put the onion, tomato, chilies, pepper and garlic in a blender or processor and blend until smooth. Add the mixture to the heated lard and cook on a high heat for about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth and stir in the sour cream. When using this sauce cut back on the baking heat and/or time to prevent burning the cream.

The Assembly Line

There are two basic "formats" for enchiladas-- rolled or flat. The rolled enchiladas are assembled and baked in a rectangle dish. The flat, stacked enchiladas, are also known as Sonaran-style enchiladas, and are more popular in Texas and New Mexico. These are also know as Montezuma Pie or Budin' Azteca, which roughly translates to Aztec Pudding. This format resembles a stack of pancakes and is usually baked in a round flat dish.

No matter what style you prefer, putting together the 'ladas can be a mess if your space is not well organized. The basic process is to very quickly heat a tortilla in oil or lard, dip it in some sauce, and then put them together. The trick is to get the tortilla from the oil to the sauce to the assembly point without leaving a trail. Also, have all your innerds within reach when you get ready for the assembly.

To get things ready, heat about 1/4 inch of oil or lard in a pan large enough to accommodate a flat corn tortilla. Pour a bit of the enchilada sauce in a pie pan and have it as close to the pan of lard as possible. Set this up in advance so the sauce can cool as the assemble is done strictly with the hands. With a pair of tongs hold the tortilla by the edge, grabbing enough surface so it won't tear when pliable. When the lard is hot, quickly dip the tortilla. Still holding the tortilla with the tongs, reverse direction and dip the other side. If the lard is hot this will be enough to make the tortilla pliable. Immediately place the tortilla in the pan of sauce, again coating both sides. I prefer to stack 3 or 4 tortillas in the sauce before beginning the assembly. This gives them a chance to cool and cuts down on the number of times you have to rinse your hands between dipping and assembling.

Enchiladas are typically made from corn tortillas but there is no reason one can't use flour. This, in fact, is my preference when using chili verde and the verde sauce. The only precaution is that the flour tortillas are very easy to tear after they are wet. An alternate method is to lightly grill them with butter instead of dipping them in lard. Take care, however, that they don't become stiff. In southewestern states such as New Mexico and Arizona "blue corn enchiladas" are quite common. The blue corn tortilla is made from a sturdier corn variety, which is really more purple than blue. I'm not convinced that the taste is much different, but it definitely has a stronger texture. Blue tortillas can sometimes be found in health food stores if you want to give them a try.

Sonoran-Style or Montezuma Pie-

For Montezuma pie, the assembly is done in the dish. Use a buttered dish to prevent sticking after they are baked. The only essential ingredient is grated cheese and raw chopped onion. Simply alternate layers of "sauced" tortillas, cheese, onions, and any meat you wish. Again, don't limit your choices to the meats presented here. You can make things interesting by alternating different kinds of cheeses such as jack and cheddar. Also consider the options of adding slices of avocado, diced olives, sliced green chilies, or even a sprinkling of crumpled, cooked beef chorizo. Once the "pie" has a sufficient number of layers, pour on the rest of the sauce, cover with grated red or white cheese and bake, covered if possible, at 350¡ or about 1/2 hour or until completely heated.

Rolled Enchiladas-

Rolled enchiladas involve a bit more production. Butter a rectangular baking dish. Make sure the dish is at least as wide as the length of a rolled tortilla. A 12 x 8 size will accommodate about 8 enchiladas. Lay the "sauced" tortilla open on a cutting board and have all the innerds ready. Now instead of using a additive approach to the innerds, I am going to suggest the full treatment. Items can then be eliminated as desired. If there are so much innerds as to prevent a complete rolling, you will have to overlap two "sauced" tortillas as illustrated.
Illustration here
My "stock" filling is as follows:
choice of meat
finely sliced white onion
grated jack cheese
one slice of avocado
a few sprinkles of cooked beef chorizo
a strip of canned green chili
a few fresh cilantro leaves [if not used in the meat]
Lay the ingredients on the bottom half of the tortilla[s], bringing them out as close to the edge as possible. This is done so a large centered "pile" is not made, which inhibits rolling. Roll the tortilla up from the bottom and over the innerds forming a tight tube. Proceed with the rest of the tortillas until the dish is full. Pour the remaining sauce over the top, taking care to cover all the surfaces and ends of the tortillas so they won't stiffen when baked. I like to sprinkle some chopped olives on the top for an extra bit of flavor. Top with grated white or red cheese and bake, covered if possible, in a 350¡ oven for about 1/2 hour. When done, remove the dish from the oven and let sit for about 10 minutes to allow the melted cheese to set. Remove each 'lada with a spatula. The leftovers will keep in the refrigerator and are just as good the next day.


---

Tamales

If Mexico has anything comparable in function to the American hot-dog, it has to be the tamal, or tamale. The tamale is the standard fiesta food and large cans of these steam-baked bundles of corn bread-filled bunches of anything are usually found anytime there is a large gathering of people. In some South American countries the word tamal actually means bundle. Tamales have not yet found there way into a lot of tacos stands this side of the border for the simple reason that they are somewhat time-consuming to make. They are, however, quite popular as a street vendor item, sold from food carts in many Hispanic areas.

The tamale is, indeed, a labor of love but the advantage is that dozens of these critters can be made at one time and frozen until they are needed. In fact, as a child I thought tamale meant "tomorrow" because they were always made at least a day ahead of time! Like the enchilada, the tamale is also a handy food compactor. The only possible consistent description for the tamale is that it is a steamed corn flour bun with something (sometimes) in it! The "something" can be anything you want. In Mexico there are sweet breakfast tamales known as tamalitos, tamales wrapped in corn husks, tamales wrapped in banana leaves, tamales filled with beef, pork, veal, venison, chicken and tamales filled with nothing (the tamale blanco). The corn flour used usually used for tamales is called masa or nixtamal. Masa translates to "mass" or "dough" and there are, in fact, other kinds of masa in addition to corn flour. Used in the context of tamale, masa is understood to mean corn flour or masa harina.

In my home the day after Thanksgiving is usually spent making masses of what has come to be known as November Tamales. Leftover turkey makes wonderful tamale innerds and reduces the possibility of turkey sandwich overload, which is so common during the last part of November.

I suggest you try tamales when you have a suitable Mexican meat leftover. This recipe will produce about two dozen small tamales and I sincerely suggest you double it the next time.

1 package corn husks
1/2 cup lard
2 cups masa harina
1 tsp. baking powder
1 1/2 cups chicken broth
1 tsp. pasilla or New Mexico chili powder
1/2 tsp. salt
stuffing of your choice
There are many ways to design and construct a tamale and I suggest taking the easy way out. My technique produces small, folded tamales which are simple to construct and their size means you can eat more of them. Once you have an available stuffing, there are only three stages to tamale assembly; 1) preparing the husks, 2) preparing the masa, and 3) stuffing, folding and steaming the husks. There is no need to heat the stuffing, as it all gets steamed in the final stage.

Los Hojas

The dry corn husks, or hojas, can be purchased in packages in virtually any grocery store. These packages contain a surprising number of husks, so start with only one. Let the entire contents of the packages sit in hot water for about 1/2 an hour or even longer if possible. Then gently separate each husk and soak them in hot water for at least another hour. They must be very pliable for proper folding. Take care not to tear any of the husks as you need them as large and intact as possible.

Now don't tell anyone I said to do this, but if it is not possible to find the corn husks you can roll the tamale in tin foil or oven proof wrap. If you get criticized for doing this, rip this page out of the book before you lend it to anyone.

La Masa

As the hojas are soaking, prepare the masa by placing the corn flour, baking powder, chili powder and salt in a large bowl. Using your fingers, slowly add the broth, mixing the four to make a soft dough. The reason the use of the fingers is essential is so they get real sticky and there is less chance of dropping a beer. Using a small bowl or food processor, beat the lard until it is very fluffy. Add the lard to the masa and beat or process until it has a soft, spongy texture. Place a warm, damp cloth over the bowl of masa until you are ready to use it.

Stuffing and Folding

This step is an exercise in Mexican Zen - often referred to as the Tamales Tang. It is boring, tedious, hypnotic and works best as a two person operation-- one for the stuffing/folding and one for watching and drinking beer. The only trick is to make sure the hojas are very pliable so they fold easily and do not break or rip. After the hojas are soft they must be thoroughly dry before the are stuffed. Otherwise the extra moisture will turn the masa into paste. Set the husks upright against a corner of the sink and let them drain. Before each one is used , wipe it off with a towel. reserved dozen pliable hojas for lining the steamer and making the ties.

Peel off several dozen strips about 1/8 thick from each reserved hoja. These will be used to tie the folded tamales. If you find they are not long enough, tie two of them together. Doing a bunch of these in advance will make the Tamale Tango go a bit smoother.

Don't use the commercial grocery store monster tamales as models. Most tamales are rather petite, designed to be consumed in mass quantity. Try to make them the size of logs requires a couple of hojas per tamales and a lot of patience. Lay the softened husk flat opened on a work-space. Take a tablespoon of the masa and place it on the bottom half of the husk. With the back of the spoon, gently spread the dough out to the bottom and both edges. Next, add a bit of your choice of filling to the middle of the masa. The common error is trying to fit too much into the tamale. These are one or two bite versions and are much smaller than the grocery store "hot tamales". Fold the two outer edges over toward the middle of the masa and filling. Press the husk gently, just enough to make it stay folded. Next, fold the bottom of the filled husk up, leaving the tail of the leave sticking out.

The last step is to simply fold the top of the husk down, over the filled husk.

Steaming

To cook the tamales you will need a large metal steamer. This is a three to four gallon pot with an open basket to hold the tamales above the boiling water. Add only enough water to a level slightly below the bottom of the basket. Place a nickel (not a dime or penny- they won't work) in the water on the bottom of the steamer (I'll explain this in a second.) Open a couple of spare hojas and line the bottom of the basket. Place the folded tamales open side up in the steamer. They do not have to be completely vertical but don't put any in upside down.

Place the entire steamer over a high flame and bring the water to a boil. Put on the cover and reduce the fire to a simmer. Now if you listen carefully you will hear a soft rattling in the steamer -- yep -- its the nickel. This is not a secret flavoring ingredient but rather a way to monitor the water. If you boil out all of the water the nickel stops rattling. Clever eh? Just open the steamer, pout more agua down the step, return to boiling, reduce to simmer, return the lid and go have a beer or two. The steamer process should take about two hours. I have had the same "tamale nickel" on a shelf over my sink for over seven years.



---

Tortas

This last recipe is not really a recipe, because a torta is no more than a sandwich. A close translation for "torta" is paddie. and is possibly related to the Italian "tortallini", meaning a kind of hat. I've never seen a "recipe" for a sandwich and I have never seen a real recipe for a torta. But at the same time, I've seen very few taquerias without tortas. So I thought I should include it just to cover all of the bases. Tortas are traditionally made with a special Mexican bread called teleras. A small, split French dinner roll works just as well. Tortas are best served warm, so wrap some rolls in foil and stick them in the oven before assembly. Even better, lightly butter the split roll and prepare it in the manner of Texas Toast. To do this, simply place the rolls, buttered-side down, on a hot grill or frying pan. Cover so no moisture can escape and grill about 1 minute. This manner of grilling will soften the roll and create a nicer texture.
a small split French dinner roll
any meat of your choice
any cheese of your choice
guacamole
sour cream or cream cheese
Optional: lettuce, sliced tomato
sliced onions, green chilies
How to make a Tort:
Take any or all of the above stuff and make a sandwich!

The ploy is to get your guests to do most of the assembly and lead them to believe that they are having fun. Remember that the basic premise is that anything goes in a taco and the only significant difference between tacos, enchiladas, burritos, etc., is how and what you put around the meats, beans and fixin's'. The other important point it to prepare things in advance so you don't have to spend the last three hours before your guests arrive making food. The cooking process, due to constant taste testing, may dull your appetite. It is important for the cook to be as relaxed, hungry, and sober as the guests.

Fiesta Uno

American eating customs for years have demanded Margaritas with Mexican food. I will yield to this ritual, but let me suggest an alternate beverage which is very similar to the Margarita and packs just as much of a whallop. Don't be too skeptical about this as I can guarantee it will be a hit. When I was first told of this recipe my response was, "That sounds like a really dumb drink!" The source and name of this thing is lost to the annals of drinking too many of them. In my kitchen it has been re-dubbed in honor of my original response, the Dum.

To make about four medium Dums:

1 medium can of frozen limeade
the limeade contain full of tequila
1 12 oz. light Pilsner or Lager beer
Blend everything together and serve over ice. The Dum can be served just as a Margarita, complete with salted glass rim.

For the fiestas have the appetizers scattered about and accessible. Place the a la carte items on your kitchen table or bar and invite your guests to construct the platas of their choice!

Appetizers:

Guacamole
Red Salsa [buy it at the store]
Salsa Verde
Scorpion Sauce
Fresh Chips
Traditional Beans (for dipping)
Margaritas, Dums and/or Mexican Beer

A La Carte:

Frijoles Borrachos
Flour Quesadillas
Shredded Beef
Chili Verde
GratedCheeses

Platas:

#1- Hard or Soft Beef Taco, Chili Verde, Beans
#2- Chili Verde, Beef Burrito, Beans
#3- Chili Verde Burrito, Quesadilla, Beans
#4- Beef Burrito, Hard or Soft Chili Verde Tacos, Quesadilla
#5- Bean and Cheese Burrito, Quesadilla
#6- Al Gusto and Beer

Now, this looks like a massive menu for a home meal, and it is. It is also quite easy to put together by using a little organization and having your guests do their own assembly. And a major part of the burden is solved by the fact that most of the stuff is better the next day. As the rituals of Mexican cooking require constant tasting and chili lip therapy, the food preparation tends to dull your appetite and your senses, To help insure that you are in the same festive mood and state of mind as your guests, let me suggest some steps to follow in basic feast preparation. As you become more and more familiar with the cooking steps you will develop your own methods and rituals.

1. The day before (or even two) prepare the shredded beef, chili verde and the beans. With all three items do not complete the final cooking stage. Leave the meats and beans with their liquid and do not cook them down. You can reserve the pickled vegetables from the beef for future use in enchiladas. Cover the dishes and keep them refrigerated until the next day. If you have time, make some scorpion sauce and keep it refrigerated in a covered bowl or jar.

2. The morning of the dinner:

A. Remove the meats and beans and let set, covered, at room temperature.
B. Grate about 1/2 pound each of red cheese and jack cheese. Keep the cheeses in separate plastic bags, at room temperature, all day.
C. Make a batch of salsa cruda and keep it refrigerated, in a plastic bag.
D. Cut up the corn tortillas for chips and keep refrigerated in a bag.

3. A couple of hours before guests arrive:

A. Put the meats and beans back on the heat and cook down to the desired consistency. Keep your eyes on things and do not them anything burn or get too dry. If you plan on making enchiladas in the near future, reserve a couple of cups of the beef liquid at this time.
B. Make the guacamole and keep it covered, and refrigerated, with the pit.
C. Butter the flour tortillas for the quesadillas. Add the cheeses (red or jack), fold them and keep covered between two plates until ready to fry.
D. Fry the chips, place in a paper or cloth-covered basket, cover with a napkin and keep in a warm spot.
E. Put the salsa and cheeses, along with some queso fresco for the tacos, in appropriate size bowls for serving. When everyone arrives set out the salsa, guacamole chips and tell them where the beer is. About 1/2 hour before you want to eat, heat the corn and flour tortillas, keeping them wrapped in foil or in a taco warmer in the oven. At this point, fry the quesadillas and also keep them well covered in a warm oven.

4. Preparing the Assembly Line:

Here is where Tom Sawyer gets Huck Finn to paint the fence (or was it the other way 'round?) The game is to set up al of the preparations in a way that your guests assume the responsibility of putting together their meal according to whatever they want to do. Since anyone has the option of a taco, burrito or meat plate, set things up so those options are convenient to assemble. On a table or bar set up a progressive choice of selections and condiments, perhaps in the following manner:

At the front end of the line set a pile of plates and forks, the warm tortillas (flour for burritos and corn for tacos) and the quesadillas. The next stage should be the meat dishes so your guests can begin assembly of tacos and burritos. Follow this with the beans for assembly in burritos or as a side dish, followed by the salsas, cheeses and remaining guacamole. Provide a brief commentary on how to assemble the options and have everyone dig in. You may even wish to be bold enough to be the first through the line so you can demonstrate various techniques. This, of course, has nothing to do with the fact that you also are the first to eat. Initially stay close to the food line and be prepared for some questions. Also do not be surprised at all when someone comes up with a combination you didn't think of.



---

Fiesta Dos

This dinner is based around a variety of tacos and an enchilada dish made from the leftover beef and vegies from Fiesta Uno.

Appetizers:

Quacamole
Scorpion Sauce
Red Salsa [buy some]
Salsa Verde
Fresh Chips
Margaritas and/or Mexican Beer A La Carte:

Quesadillas
Arroz a la Mexicana
Beef Enchiladas
Hard and Soft Tacos
Carnitas Carnitas
Adobo Lamb Adobo
Chicken
Refried Frijoles Refritos
Beer I suggest you use lamb for the adobo tacos because of the pork carnitas. On the other hand, the adobo is quite spicy and carnitas and pork adobo will be very different-- you decide.

The preparation is just like the first feast. Make the meats a day in advance and do all of the fixin's' the next. The only difference is that you should make the frijoles refritos the same day and keep them covered in a warm oven. The Arroz de la Mexicana will also be fine kept covered in the oven. For the enchiladas, leftover shredded beef (or anything else) from Fiesta Uno. If you have to you can make a new batch of shredded beef. The enchiladas can be made the previous day but are really better if you make them the day of the meal. Do not warm or heat them until just before serving. If you let them sit in a warm oven for too long the cheese will get weird.

Set everything else up like before, only this time you might want to give people the option of hard or soft tacos. This feast is very good as an outdoor theme party. In this case use the barbecue to keep the meat and beans warm, and to warm the soft tacos.



---

Fiesta Tres and Beyond

Al gusto mi amigo. Consider using all the leftovers from Fiesta Dos for Burritos. If you do a little planning I'm sure you can get into a state of perpetual motion with this food. The Chinese have a culinary tradition called thousand year soup in which a soup stock is kept going over a low head for years. Its contents change according to what the evening's leftovers happen to be. If anybody has success with 3 month enchiladas, please let me know. I started this book with the statement that Mexican food is the basis for all intelligent life in the universe. Who knows? It may also be the source of unlimited natural energy, and I don't care to take that line of logic any further.

So the possibilities are really endless. I've been using the recipes and techniques in this book for many years and have yet to really duplicate a meal for my guests. The taqueria connoisseur is, by nature, a free thinker, so mix and match every conceivable possibility. It will probably taste wonderful, and if it doesn't it will at least taste great. Get on a regular schedule of hunting for taquerias and trying them out. Watch the cooks and servers and ask them questions. A good technique for taqueria tracking is to call up any local Mexican food distributor or tortilla factory and see if you can get some locations of their customers. If, heaven forbid, you happen to live in an area ungraced by good taco stands, then you always have this book.

BUEN PROVECHO Y ADIOS

Allen Strange






Index of Recipes and Things

• BEANS
  Borrachos (beans cooked with beer)
  Refried (Frijoles Refritos)
  
  Version 1: From Scratch
  Version 2: From Pre-cooked Beans
  Version 3: From Commercial Frijoles Refritos
  
  Traditional

• BURRITOS
  Rollin'
  Stuffin'
  

• CANNED GOODS
• CHICKEN (Pollo)
  Pollo Adobo
  Shredded
  

• CHIPS
• ENCHILADAS
  Rolled
  Sauces
  Version 1: Other Son of Salsa con Hair
  Version 2: Salsa con Hair
  Version 3: Son of Salsa con Hair
  Verde Enchilada Sauce
  Sonoran (Montezuma Pie)

• FIESTAS
  Fiesta Uno
  Fiesta Dos
  Fiesta Tres

• GUACAMOLE
• MEATS
  Adobo (Adobado)
  Version 1
  Version 2
  Version 3
  
  Carne Asada
  Carnitas
  Chili Colorado
  
  Sauces
  Version 1 [the "you won't believe it but try it anyway method"]
  Version 2: A Bit More Authentic
  Version 3: Industrial Grade
  Sonoran Style
  
  Chili Verde
  
  Version 2
  
  Ropa Vieja
  Shredded Beef (Machaca)
• MISCELLANEOUS STUFF
• RICE
  Arroz a la Mexicana (Traditional)
  Arroz Verde (Green Rice)
  

• QUESADILLAS
• SALSAS
  Salsa Cruda
  Salsa Verde
  Scorpion Sauce
  

• SPICES
• TACOS
  Hard
  Soft
  Taco Lore
  

• TAQUITOS
• TAMALES
  Hojas
  Masa
  Steaming
  Stuffing and Folding

• TORTAS
• VERDURAS ESCHABECHE (Pickled Vegetables)